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14
 
Embroidery that empowers

Over the years, SEWA has developed a rich and vivid embroidery pool by uniting several artisan communities involved in different embroidery techniques.


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Aari Embroidery

Aari embroidery is done in the areas of Patan and Banskantha where 7,000 STFC artisans live. This type of embroidery is worked with a cobbler needle. “AAR” is a hook needle, where the thread is introduced from below. This is also known as “Mochi Bharat” (Cobbler’s stich). In earlier days, silk thread was used on satin (Gaji) and although the technique is simple in principle it requires considerable skill and extensive practice. Aari embroidery is now done on various surfaces like leather, laminates and textiles.

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Rabari Embroidery

Rabari embroidery is mainly done in postural Kutch, where 8,000 of STFC artisans are settled. Rabari women are known for their gorgeous and very impressive embroidery that is emblematic of their nomadic life. Rabari embroidery layout is filled with chain stitch and embedded with lots of embroidery in the motifs pattern.

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Appliqué and Patchwork

The use of appliqué and patchwork techniques together was traditionally a method of recycling old fabrics to make new fabrics. Very often these pieces use a range of printed and woven fabrics not found in other forms, they are the remaining record of materials made in the years prior to the piece being made.

Appliqué is the addition of fabrics or embroidered pieces to a background fabric. Appliqué pieces are often cut directly from the cloth, the edges turned under the slip stitched into the background fabric. The techniques are mainly used in the region of Patan in Gujarat where 6,200 of STFC’s artisans reside.

The method of folding the fabric and cutting away is similar to that used to make cut paper designs. The fabric is folded, then shapes are cut away or the fabric is cut into. When the fabric is opened up and slip-stitched onto the background, the shapes are enlarged. The outer edge, the width of the band or size of the motif is then reduced with the slip-stitching.

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Bandhni Work

Bandhani work involves tying and dyeing pieces of cotton or silk cloth. The main colours used in Bandhani are yellow, red, green and black. The final product of Bandhni work is a variety of symbols including dots, squares, waves and strips. These pieces are dyed in dark natural colors and the background is usually black or red.

Bankdhni work is exclusively carried out by the Khatri community of Kutc). A meter of cloth can have million of tiny knots known as “Bheendhi” in the local language (Kutchhi). These knots form beautiful designs once the dyeing process is done and the cloth has been opened.

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Soi Work

Soi embriodery is known for the various shaped mirrors embedded in each design. The mirrors are shaped by cuttimg and filing on terracotta roof tile surfaces. The vocabulary of the motifs tell stories from the artisans environment where peacocks, parrots, elephants, cacti and scorpions are abundant.

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Sadu Bharat

Sadu Bharat or herringbone stitch is the most common type of embroidery stitch performed by the Rabari community of Gujarat. Since it is used for the major portion of the embroidery in one single piece it is also referred to as 'Rabari bharat'. Long satin stitch and running stitch covering the entire fabric surface with bright colours are characteristic of sadu bharat kaam. Mirrors are used to create focal points in the pattern. A range of products are produced, with motifs derived from animal and floral forms, and stylised human figures. Sequins and beads are used on the periphery of the textile to highlight the motifs.

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Pakko embroidery is practiced in the Sodha, Rajput and Megwar communities in Gujarat. The word “pakko” literally means “solid”, which refers to the dense stitches that are used. The embroidery work covers almost the whole area of the base cloth. The designed used in pakko embroidery are created using free hand drawing, which is later made on the base cloth using stencils. The outlines are created using a square chain stitch. The fillings are done using a denser variety of the buttonhole stitch with a slightly raised level. Commonly used motifs include peacocks, parrots, scorpions, elephants and floral patterns done in a stylized form with sharp angular edges. This is also ample use of mirror in this embroidery.

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Jat Embroidery of Kutch

Jats brought this type of embroidery when they migrated from Baluchistan via Pakistan and settled in Kutch. The chain and inverted chain stitches along with interlocking and buttonhole stitches are common in their embroidery. The thickness of the embroidery creates a relief surface on the fabric.

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Mutva Embroidery

 
The Haliputras whose main occupation was to breed water buffalos migrated from the Baluchi and Sindh region of Afghanistan. Mutva embroidery derives its name from Mutva (Maidhari) which is a sub-caste of Muslims living in Banni. Mutva embroidery is the finest in the Banni area. The Mutva women are highly skilled and do single thread embroidery. They adapted the motifs used in Pakko, Suf and Ari embroidery and create an aura around the motifs with running back stitches, which look like fine beads from a distance. Their work is extremely intricate and the mirrors are like fine pinheads. Traditionally commissioned to do pieces by the royal patronage and the elites, they complete their embroidery on fine tye-dyed surfaces. Their designs are geometric in pattern but inlaid with fine stitches and ornaments.
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